When gazing upon a map of Hvar island, you may notice an intriguing ridge stretching across the landscape, like a backbone of stone and soil.
It’s here that Hvar’s highest peak, Sveti Nikola (St. Nicholas), stands at an impressive 626 metres above sea level, overseeing the Adriatic with solemn grandeur. This storied peak isn’t just a natural marvel — it’s a place steeped in legends, history and timeless beauty. If you’re a lover of hiking, culture or simply the thrill of exploration, an ascent to Sveti Nikola is a must-have experience.
The legends of Sveti Nikola
The journey to Sveti Nikola is more than just a hike; it’s an adventure through Hvar’s rich and layered history. Long ago, locals from the nearby villages of Vrbanj and Svirče built a small chapel atop the mountain, dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors, travellers and children. Matija Ivanić, the famed leader of the Hvar rebellion, is said to have taken part in the chapel’s construction — a lasting symbol of the island’s deep connection to the sea and sky.
The choice of St. Nicholas is no coincidence. As a protector of sailors, his “office” atop the peak offers a panoramic view of the southern islands of Korčula and Vis, and beyond that, the boundless Adriatic. The chapel has weathered many storms, damaged by lightning over the years but rebuilt each time by devoted hands. According to local legend, St. Nicholas himself once showed his displeasure when his statue was moved to protect it from damage, sending hail upon the village of Sveta Nedjelja until his statue was returned to its rightful place.
For centuries, Hvar's inhabitants have looked to Sveti Nikola as a place of reverence, both for the protection it symbolises and the sanctuary it offers. Today, the chapel remains a sacred stop for those who brave the ascent.
Access points to the peak
Sveti Nikola presents multiple routes for eager adventurers, each with its own character. Whether you’re looking for a moderate trek or a slightly more challenging climb, the journey up Hvar’s highest peak can be tailored to fit your spirit of adventure.
From Dol and Svirče: These routes are ideal for hikers who prefer a steadier, scenic walk. Both paths take approximately two hours, leading you through fragrant Mediterranean landscapes. Along the way, the terrain is marked by low, hardy vegetation and ancient stone walls, making for a peaceful and gradual ascent.
From Sveta Nedjelja: For those seeking a quicker but more intense route, the ascent from Sveta Nedjelja is the shortest, at roughly one and a half hours. However, be prepared — this path is notably steeper, making it the most challenging route. The views from this southern side, with its sharp descent towards the sea, are dramatic and awe-inspiring.
While reaching the top requires moderate effort, it is not highly technical; sturdy hiking shoes, water and a sense of adventure are all you’ll need. For the less hiking-inclined, there’s also an option to reach the peak by car. Gravel roads from Dol or near the tunnel on the Stari Grad-Hvar road lead to a pass about an hour’s walk from the summit. Here, the paths to the peak are well-marked, and the dazzling views reveal what lies ahead.
The popular route: from Dol to the summit
For a first-time ascent, the route from Dol is highly recommended. This path combines moderate challenges with the scenic beauty of Hvar’s countryside. Starting in the storybook village of Dol, the trail winds gradually upward, surrounded by aromatic herbs and the distant hum of cicadas. The sun casts soft shadows over rocky slopes and wild foliage, inviting you into a different world as you climb higher.
As you approach the summit, you’ll pass a small fire-fighting observatory, a white stone cross erected to mark the 850th anniversary of the Brač-Hvar-Vis diocese and finally, St. Nicholas’s chapel. This simple, elegant chapel has stood on the mountaintop since the 15th century, its roof weathered by centuries of sun, wind and prayer. On the chapel’s eastern wall, a metal seal marks the summit, a small but rewarding detail for those who make the trek. The area also contains two hikers' boxes, where you can record your name as a testament to your voyage.
Savour the descent
The appeal of Sveti Nikola doesn’t end at the summit. On your descent, stop at the local restaurant nestled near the trail, where the flavours of Hvar come to life. Enjoy island delicacies — grilled fish, olives and locally grown vegetables — in the quiet company of the mountain. This leisurely meal serves as the perfect reward after your climb, allowing you to savour the essence of Hvar’s culinary traditions alongside the views you’ve earned.
If you choose to stay overnight, there’s a unique option awaiting: Cottage Taygete. This rustic retreat perched at the peak lets you experience the tranquillity of Sveti Nikola under the stars. Ideal for six, the cottage combines comfort and simplicity with a stellar swimming pool to boot, promising a rare opportunity to dive into this otherworldly ambience. You won’t witness a better sunrise over the Adriatic, either.
A peak for all seasons
While Sveti Nikola takes your breath away throughout the year, certain seasons add an extra touch of magic to your ascent:
Spring (April to May): The island is alive with wildflowers and greenery. Temperatures are mild, making the ascent comfortable and refreshing.
Summer (June to August): Expect warmer weather and clearer skies. Summer is perfect for panoramic vistas, but consider an early start to avoid the often gruelling midday heat.
Autumn (September to October): This is an ideal time for hiking, with fewer visitors and slightly cooler temperatures. The colours of the setting sun cast a warm glow across the landscape, a reward for reaching the summit.
Winter (November to March): Though quieter, winter offers a unique solitude. The air is crisp and you may have the trail — and the peak — all to yourself.
Unearth the spirit of Sveti Nikola
Conquering Sveti Nikola is more than reaching a summit; it’s a journey into the spirit of Hvar itself. The mountain offers a haven of beauty, a sacred chapel and panoramas that stretch to the very edges of the horizon. Whether you arrive by foot or car, whether you pause for lunch or stay overnight at Cottage Taygete, this experience goes beyond the physical — it’s a connection to the island’s soul.
As you make your way down, perhaps carrying a sprig of wild rosemary or sage, you’ll take with you its stillness, a reminder of Hvar’s enduring natural beauty. The memory of Sveti Nikola will remain long after you’ve descended, calling you back to its heights and the boundless perspectives that can only be found atop Hvar’s sacred peak. With Villas Hvar, Sveti Nikola is always within reach.
